Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument: Where the Desert Keeps Its Secrets
Overview
Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument spans nearly one million acres of southern Utah canyon country. This vast wilderness of slickrock, slot canyons, and sandstone plateaus remains one of the most remote and least developed regions in the continental United States. Managed by the Bureau of Land Management, the monument protects a sweeping sequence of geologic “steps” stretching from the cliffs of Bryce Canyon to the desert rim of the Colorado River. It’s a land shaped by time, water, and solitude—where exploration feels raw and endless.
Getting There
The monument is accessible from several small towns: Escalante and Boulder on Scenic Highway 12, Kanab to the south, and Big Water along Highway 89. Each provides fuel, food, and limited lodging before entering the monument’s backroads. Most major routes are graded dirt and can be traveled by high-clearance vehicles in dry conditions, but sudden storms can quickly make travel hazardous. Always check the weather and road conditions before setting out.
Trails
The network of primitive roads in Grand Staircase–Escalante offers some of the most rewarding overland routes in Utah. Each trail reveals a different character of the monument’s layered landscape:
- Hole-in-the-Rock Road is the monument’s most famous backroad, leading deep into slickrock country with access to slot canyons like Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Gulch. The road follows the path of the original Mormon pioneers who carved their way toward the Colorado River in 1879.
- Smoky Mountain Road climbs from Big Water to Escalante across a stark, high-desert plateau with wide horizons and incredible geology. It’s remote, rough, and breathtaking, often requiring several hours to traverse.
- Cottonwood Canyon Road connects Highway 89 to Kodachrome Basin, winding through colorful badlands, hoodoos, and the striking Paria River canyon. It’s one of the most photogenic drives in southern Utah and passable in most dry conditions.
- Burr Trail begins near Boulder and descends through the Waterpocket Fold, offering dramatic switchbacks, towering cliffs, and access to Capitol Reef’s remote southern reaches.
Camping
Dispersed camping is allowed throughout the monument, with hundreds of established pullouts and primitive sites along main routes. Sites are generally flat, scenic, and offer complete solitude, though no amenities are provided. Visitors should follow Leave No Trace principles—pack out all waste, minimize fire impact, and camp on previously disturbed surfaces. For those preferring developed facilities, campgrounds near Escalante, Boulder, and Kodachrome Basin State Park offer vault toilets and water.
Free permits are required for all overnight stays within Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments. You can get these permits at visitor centers or at developed trailheads. Additionally, certain high-traffic areas require special recreational permits, which are issued through a lottery system.
Wildlife & Seasons
Spring and fall are ideal seasons for travel, bringing mild days and cool nights. Summer heat can exceed 100°F, while flash floods and washed-out roads are common during the monsoon season. Wildlife sightings include desert bighorn sheep, mule deer, golden eagles, and the occasional coyote silhouetted against red rock at sunset. The quiet here is profound—broken only by wind and the echo of canyon wrens.
Nearby Attractions
Visitors can pair their trip with nearby destinations such as Bryce Canyon National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, or the Paria Rimrocks. Scenic Highway 12 itself is a world-class drive, linking many of these highlights while offering views of Escalante’s sweeping canyons and sandstone domes.
Why Visit
Grand Staircase–Escalante is for travelers who crave true wilderness and discovery. Its endless backroads, hidden canyons, and remote campsites reward patience and preparation. Here, exploration feels timeless—each mile unfolding a new layer of color, history, and silence. For those who value solitude, scale, and the spirit of the open desert, there’s no place quite like it.